infrared still vidHeading east around the scenic bend as the sun started to disappear behind Koko Head Crater, I smiled when I saw a faint rainbow arching directly over Wawamalu (ancient name of Sandys) in the distance. It is always a blessing to see a stripe of Skittles streak the sky. Late sessions are the best because you can park front row in the lifeguard stalls. I felt like I was in line at a liquid carnival once I stood on shore in awe of the teal mercury ocean that was handing out free ride tickets. Waves were as fulfilling as the LIMITED EDITION blueberry crumble ICE CREAM from Haagen Dazs I had the other night. So good. Hawaiian cotton candy clouds made the rainbow vanish and me wish they were really eatable.
Monday was a special day that I remember every year. Nine years ago... I met an angel named, Arthur Walter. This young man changed my life forever for the better. He was a heaven sent gift to anyone that knew him through his immense talents in music, art, board sports, and Kempo Karate. I created Sol Shred Skim (back in 2006) in memory of his greatness so that his positive light would continue to perpetuate beyond the flesh and become a source of inspiration to all.
The power of his spiritual presence was definitely felt at Waimea. I called it a week ago! Solid 2-4 feet Hawaiian scale [double the number to picture the visual size] faces curled into whirlpools spitting hollow-point bullets of saltwater right on shore. You should have been there. 1:43
It has been over 3 weeks since The Eddie turned out to be a "no go" at Waimea Bay. Due to the consistency of winter swells annihilating the sandbar, it took this much time for it to build up again and offer decent skim conditions. I hit up the shore break at the bay yesterday with an array of lovers on the beach acting twitterpated because of V Day. I predict that Waimea will be super fun when the next big swell comes in. I had her to myself besides the annoying tourists who choose to stand directly in my path. I wish I had a huge eraser to smudge them out of my vision. A big MAHALO to photographer, Luke Takayama, for graciously sending me photos from previous sessions at Sandys. The one below was taken on 1/29/11.
Shot by Luke Takayama
On a Sunday Fun Day at HI noon I decided to battle against 100+ people in the water at Sandys. They sit right where it wedges with or without bodyboards bobbing around in a fishbowl like scattered ping pong balls. Getting a wave to yourself after lunchtime is sweeter than Filipino halo-halo [google it] for dessert and everyone wants a taste.
A skim ninja suddenly threw up a shaka when I looked down the beach. It was the ever impressive Travis Tsuda welcoming me to the crowded lineup. We were outnumbered today and had to respectably back off too many times. I lasted an hour till I was over it.
Photographer -- Luke Takayama
photoluke.net
Dialing in da Gadjo
Waking up in Country has been my hobby this winter season. My goal is to eventually move up north from town sooner than later. I love the simplicity of walking or cruising a bike down the street to jump in the ocean which is what I'm about to do. Had a late sesh at Gas Chambers yesterday when the wind came down a bit. The beach park was playful because of all the packed sand on the inside so I caught some fun wraps and shwaqs. I'm really feeling da Gadjo (MuchU's new model). Everything about it is sexy... the blunt nose, extra curve in the hips, smooth top to glossy bottom. I turn into a wild gypsy when I ride it at sunset beneath a purple haze sky. Read the Zero Trash blog posted by Tex while making dinner. I believe in their movement -- gather your neighbors every first Saturday of the month between 10am to noon and pick up trash on your street and beach. It's simple, effective, and of course it makes a difference! If we are the source of the mess, we must be the solution to the problem.
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