I received a phone call yesterday evening from an unfamiliar number. A male voice responded. All he had to say was "I'm Dominic's dad (Vinnie)" and it all came together. I met Vinnie Sanzone, his wife (Claudia), and their impressive little boy [to the right] at the Vic in 2008. I still have a clear memory of looking down the beach and seeing Dominic compete for the first time when he was 4 years old. He instantly became my mini idol. The fact that his skimboard was bigger than him caught my attention and kept me smiling at an image of unbearable cuteness. At the awards ceremony, I went out of my way to congratulate him on his performance with a kids' size Sol Shred Skim T-shirt. There was definitely room for him to grow into when he put it on three years ago. Vinnie mentioned that Dom still wears it even though it's skin tight now.
Assuming that Vinnie called to update me on his grom's prodigious progress in board sports, my breath was taken away when I heard the words -- Non-Hodgkin's Burkitt's Lymphoma Cancer. Once I realized how optimistic Vinnie was acting about Dom's diagnosis, I repeatedly commended him for being so unwavering based on such a brave battle. All he asked of me was if I could spread the news and request prayer for his son's full recovery from chemotherapy. Without hesitation, I promised Vinnie it was the least I could do as Dominic's biggest fan.
Currently, at the age of 6, Dominic's leadership skills are apparent through his healthy balance of sports and school. Dropping into a skate bowl from a 9ft ramp is as natural as being at the top of his first grade class. Outside of being physically active and studious, this wee phenom is also pursuing an acting career. All these accolades barely skim the surface of his youth which is constantly blooming. If I could, I would steal the sun for a day and use its bright light to heal this little guy. To all who read this... Let us manifest Dominic Sanzone's triumphant victory with the support of our unbreakable faith and positive vibrations.
Words cannot explain how amazing it is to witness a butterfly emerge from its chrysalis. Milhouse was the first to come out this blustery morning. I believe she's female because her veins are dark and she doesn't appear to have special scales in the center of her hind wings known as androconia. Males possess these scales that look like prominent spots to attract the opposite sex. A couple hours after Milhouse resurrected... Herbie broke out of her cocoon in a different container. It took a few minutes for their wings to fully expand because of the moisture trapped inside their mini incubators. Once their wings are dry, my butterflies will be set free to float on without a worry.
Thursday * 8:22pm Mom calls from California because an 8.9 megaquake triggered a tsunami off the northeastern coast of Japan. Globally, it is the 5th largest in recorded history. First person I think of is my dear skim friend, Shiho. I pray that she is safe with her family in Kobe. In the middle of The Pacific Ring of Fire like a bull's eye, Hawaii vulnerably waits for the repercussions of such a horrific disaster. Tsunami sirens sound off around midnight warning everyone to reach higher ground. A few friends jump in my truck with some supplies and we head uphill to Kahuku's Motocross Track waiting for the worst in the most casual way.
Listening to Nas & Damian Marley off their Distant Relatives album makes me reminisce of their epic show more than a week ago. About to have a post sesh breakfast. LIFE is lovely & I live to enJOY every moment of it. My favorite part is enhancing its vibrancy by coloring each scene with my imagination. Dreams come true when you understand how to ride momentum and cruise with the flow.
Paddled out to Vals yesterday during sunset. It's been a month since I've went for a surf so my arms were pretty flimsy. Surfing and skimming are completely different to me. One is upper strength and the other is lower endurance. I had to flip my switch from skimboarder to surfer once I started duck diving on shallow reef. The water completely glassed over at dusk reflecting a mirror image of the universe above me. I spotted my first star and made a wish.
Woke up around 7am today and greeted the 2 caterpillars my honey surprised me with in a compostable cup made from corn. Raising butterflies is a trip. They are quite meticulous. Waves came down in Country and the trade winds are finally back to clear away the vog. I sampled the blown out shorebreak to the right of Pipeline then challenged myself to shuv-it across a mini pond created by high tide and consistent rain in the middle of the beach. It took me a few tries before I landed a couple and skidded up dry sand super stoked. There was one time my rail caught still water as I was spinning the board and I flew like a stunt dummy. [WARNING: Children please don't try this at home.] Flatland skim is a riot! Props to Lexi Hutchings and all her flair in this department.
Heading east around the scenic bend as the sun started to disappear behind Koko Head Crater, I smiled when I saw a faint rainbow arching directly over Wawamalu (ancient name of Sandys) in the distance. It is always a blessing to see a stripe of Skittles streak the sky. Late sessions are the best because you can park front row in the lifeguard stalls. I felt like I was in line at a liquid carnival once I stood on shore in awe of the teal mercury ocean that was handing out free ride tickets. Waves were as fulfilling as the LIMITED EDITION blueberry crumble ICE CREAM from Haagen Dazs I had the other night. So good. Hawaiian cotton candy clouds made the rainbow vanish and me wish they were really eatable.
Monday was a special day that I remember every year. Nine years ago... I met an angel named, Arthur Walter. This young man changed my life forever for the better. He was a heaven sent gift to anyone that knew him through his immense talents in music, art, board sports, and Kempo Karate. I created Sol Shred Skim (back in 2006) in memory of his greatness so that his positive light would continue to perpetuate beyond the flesh and become a source of inspiration to all. The power of his spiritual presence was definitely felt at Waimea. I called it a week ago! Solid 2-4 feet Hawaiian scale [double the number to picture the visual size] faces curled into whirlpools spitting hollow-point bullets of saltwater right on shore. You should have been there. 1:43
The clip below occurred more than a week ago and is the cause of all the thick vog in the atmosphere, the hail that came down in Waipahu (central O'ahu), and the mean lightning/thunder storm tonight. . .
It has been over 3 weeks since The Eddie turned out to be a "no go" at Waimea Bay. Due to the consistency of winter swells annihilating the sandbar, it took this much time for it to build up again and offer decent skim conditions. I hit up the shore break at the bay yesterday with an array of lovers on the beach acting twitterpated because of V Day. I predict that Waimea will be super fun when the next big swell comes in. I had her to myself besides the annoying tourists who choose to stand directly in my path. I wish I had a huge eraser to smudge them out of my vision.
A big MAHALO to photographer, Luke Takayama, for graciously sending me photos from previous sessions at Sandys. The one below was taken on 1/29/11.
On a Sunday Fun Day at HI noon I decided to battle against 100+ people in the water at Sandys. They sit right where it wedges with or without bodyboards bobbing around in a fishbowl like scattered ping pong balls. Getting a wave to yourself after lunchtime is sweeter than Filipino halo-halo [google it] for dessert and everyone wants a taste. A skim ninja suddenly threw up a shaka when I looked down the beach. It was the ever impressive Travis Tsuda welcoming me to the crowded lineup. We were outnumbered today and had to respectably back off too many times. I lasted an hour till I was over it.
Waking up in Country has been my hobby this winter season. My goal is to eventually move up north from town sooner than later. I love the simplicity of walking or cruising a bike down the street to jump in the ocean which is what I'm about to do. Had a late sesh at Gas Chambers yesterday when the wind came down a bit. The beach park was playful because of all the packed sand on the inside so I caught some fun wraps and shwaqs. I'm really feeling da Gadjo (MuchU's new model). Everything about it is sexy... the blunt nose, extra curve in the hips, smooth top to glossy bottom. I turn into a wild gypsy when I ride it at sunset beneath a purple haze sky. Read the Zero Trash blog posted by Tex while making dinner. I believe in their movement -- gather your neighbors every first Saturday of the month between 10am to noon and pick up trash on your street and beach. It's simple, effective, and of course it makes a difference! If we are the source of the mess, we must be the solution to the problem.